The official from the Italian Federation of Public Concerns was frank: among the 12,000 Italian restaurants that exist in the United States, a meager 10-15 percent can be categorized as authentic. “The others,” he emphasized, “have in some way encroached upon the name, and behind the ‘Italian Restaurant’ sign, there’s a little of everything, or sometimes, there’s nothing.” The Italian government will survey every Italian restaurant and award some certificates announcing their authenticity. more>